Tory Row

December 18th, 2009 by Richard Chudy

I’ve been to Miracle of Science and loved its simplicity, a solid burger done right, full of smoky flavor and juicy to the last bite. The same ownership has (fairly) recently opened Tory Row in Harvard Square, with an overall menu that is far more impressive but still boasting a burger that very closely resembles the Miracle of Science offering. It definitely feels different on the interior, less nerdy in a scientific way like MOS and a little more cleaner, grown-up in a Harvard sort-of-way, if that makes any sense at all.

Unfortunately on this Thursday night it’s crowded (and boy is it tiny) so we’re forced to stand pressed against the glass wall glaring at the lucky patrons fortunate enough to be seated. There really is no waiting area unless you count the bar (I don’t) and on a below-freezing night it’s certainly not very enjoyable to catch a breeze every time the door opens.

The burger is mostly the same as MOS, flat, with a ciabatta-type bun, and grilled. It comes with the same potatoes, although ours come cold and with the same spicy aioli. The Tory Row burger comes with bacon, which is lovely flavor wise, but is so scarce, I forget it’s on the burger, and the pickles add a nice touch. But there’s too much red onion for my taste, and the burger, while still delicious, is a tad over-cooked, and what started out as juicy dries out a touch as I near the end. The bun is nice and crusty but is almost too much, you really have to work to harmonize the bun and burger into one perfect bite, otherwise you end up with too much bread and not enough beef. But it’s the same smoky beef flavor, over-cooked or not, it remains one of my favorites in Boston, perfectly salty and bursting with flavor.

Overall, the menu is a big upgrade here, perfect pub fare, in my opinion, it’s more refined and attempting to be a bit more upscale, but is it better? Based on the burger alone, I’d have to say no.

Overall Score: 86

Comments are closed.