Central Kitchen

March 22nd, 2010 by Richard Chudy

More often than not, when I order a burger it looks better then it tastes. The burger at Central Kitchen is a perfect example of this, as it arrives on a towering, freshly baked bun with a gorgeous cylinder of fries. I’m always weary of the ‘too much bun” factor, it’s really become my biggest pet peeve, as few places get the meat to bun ratio correct. While the bun at Central Kitchen is tasty, it’s just overwhelming. Add to that an assortment of “too much stuff”, red onion, lettuce, tomato and the like, and the beef just gets lost. What does stand out is the Vermont Cheddar, perfectly melted and tangy, a beautiful choice that reminds me of the cheese on the Craigie burger.

Everyone at the table orders a medium-rare burger, but no one receives one. Mine is raw and the other three are borderline well done. My burger is juicy, but as I peer into the other burgers, despite the pool of aioli spilling out, the beef itself is not so moist. Not overly flavorful, really it’s simple and uncomplicated, a typical pub burger, with no wow factor of note. The problem with a bun this size is that you end up alternating between bites of bread and meat, but rarely both at the same time, which is a problem. The fries, much like Radius, are as close to McDonald’s as you can get, and I don’t mean that in a negative way. I’m actually not even convinced they aren’t from McDonald’s, but either way I like them. The burger comes in at $13, which is not worth it for me, price aside, it’s just not that memorable, maybe next time someone can focus on the beef and not the bun.

Overall Score: 77

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