April 12th, 2010 by Richard Chudy

Sometimes I just know when a burger’s going to be great, I fully expected the famed Toro burger to deliver, and it did, exceeding my expectations in some areas, but disappointing in others. It terms of flavor, it’s easily in the top three, rivaling only the Craigie burger in terms of beefy goodness, it’s juicy beyond belief, and ordering the burger “messy” just adds to the flavor profile. A “messy” burger, for the uninformed, is the same spread used on the to-die-for grilled corn, featuring a blend of garlic alioli, Cotija cheese, lime and espelette pepper. I often find an alioli to be too much, but here it’s the perfect compliment to a beefy burger.

Pickled red onion adds a nice balance to the richness of the 100% short rib burger, but maybe could have used a bit more acidity, as I wasn’t getting quite enough to satisfy my needs. It’s a paltry 5 ounce burger, and quite frankly, despite ordering two tapas, I could have easily eaten another burger or two. Which isn’t a bad thing, it definitely left me wanting more, and for $8 seems like a relative steal. But you have to factor in that it doesn’t come with anything, filling in the blanks with a Tapas or two is up to you, and after all was said and done, for two people we were staring at a $50 bill once again.

My biggest gripe is not with the price tag, I can live with that, but it was the lack of effort with the bun and the cheese. The bun is a pretty standard Arnold’s white bun from the grocery store, arriving cold and un-toasted, it has little to offer, dissolving into mush almost immediately with the amount of juice coming out of the burger. And while there is a time and place for American cheese, it just doesn’t belong here, this burger deserves better. The Cotija failed to deliver in the alioli, and the un-melted American does the same. I feel like a strong Cheddar or a Manchego really would have fit the bill and put the Toro burger onto another level. It is tricky to get the burger, as it’s only available during weekday lunch hours, but in terms of the beefiness that I’ve been searching for, it’s certainly one of the two best tasting burgers I’ve had in Boston to date, just imagine what a better bun would do?

Overall Score: 92

3 Responses

  1. Gotta go with Cheddar over American. A good burger deserves it.

  2. Tim Koester says:

    I think that your review is good. I was a little surprised at the score being so high after the inadequate bun, I would have thought it would have been in the low 80’s at best. Your comments are very insightful though.

    • Tough Call, the scores are basically arbitrary, I pick a number and go with it. Based on beef and beef only, the Toro burger is right there with the Craigie burger, which is why I felt it deserved such a high score. Slipping on the bun definitely cost what I think could have been top billing, but the $8 price tag certainly helps its case.