Art Bar

November 22nd, 2010 by Richard Chudy

Located at the Royal Sonesta Hotel in Cambridge, Art Bar somehow landed on my “master burger list.” I say somehow because I’ve completely lost track of the origins of these suggestions, but one way or another, someone told me to check it out and so I did, with the infamous Mike Isman. It’s a $14 burger and I don’t know why, maybe because there’s Art on the walls? Food I get, but art is a world I know nothing about, combine the two in a restaurant setting and I can’t quite piece it together. It’s snobby, but no less so than The Four Seasons, the type of place that very well could have a good burger, but sadly does not. It’s a $14 burger disguised as a $7 burger, as they use the dreaded combination of ground Sirloin and Brioche, two automatic fails in my mind. Unmelted American cheese tops the patty (seriously, how can you not melt American cheese?) that at least looks promising, but looks can be deceiving. The meat, which of curse is too lean, is completely over-packed, and is tough, unpleasant to chew and lacking identity. It’s seasoned, but not necessarily tasting like beef, meaty perhaps, but not tasting of a cow, if that makes any sense at all. The fries taste pretty good too, but a little too pale in color to take on any substantial crunch, and far too few grace my plate, especially for the cost. In the competitive world of burgers in Boston, Art Bar fails to distinguish itself in any way. It’s okay, I’m certainly not offended, but in many ways it’s just another day at the office for the humble hamburger, which too often is plain, boring, and lackluster. But it’s still a burger, and even if it’s not the best or even anything worthwhile, I love the hunt, the quest, and the desire to find the best, and the search must go on.

Overall Score: 70

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