Gargoyle’s on the Square (CLOSED)

February 8th, 2011 by Richard Chudy

If it’s all about the beef, as I often am guilty of saying, then the burger at Gargoyle’s on the Square is sublime. It’s beefy, juicy, salty, and has umami flavor all over it. But if a burger is only as good as the sum of its parts, as I am also often guilty of saying, the burger at Gargoyle’s is good in one area and a complete failure everywhere else. Namely the bun, which has ruined many a good burger before, is the culprit here again. No, a disco brunch isn’t my thing, and yes, it was uncomfortably warm inside, but that didn’t stop the engaging Dylan Wise and I to chew the fat, as they say, and dissect our burgers. The beef truly is excellent, cooked perfectly, seasoned beautifully and tasting fantastic, but it’s almost all for nothing, as a beyond stale bun ruins it all. It was once an onion roll essentially, maybe it was fresh a week ago, but not on this day, as it was probably the most stale bun I’ve had on my burger quest. Luckily it wasn’t brioche, but it had the same problems as a brioche, just so much bread, how can anyone think this is a good idea. And it’s not a super thick patty either, that it may be slightly more forgiving otherwise is out the window, I literally kept asking myself, “where’s the beef?” Mushrooms also top the burger, but offer nothing, but I am a bit finicky with my ‘shrooms, either they are cooked properly or they are just slime, these unfortunately were the latter. The rare addition of waffle fries make the plate too, and it could just be me but I always equate a waffle fry with a frozen product, my brain has just beentrained that way I guess. These could have gone one way or another, if they weren’t frozen, you could have fooled me, they tasted okay, but need salt and are too chewy to be viewed as anything but frozen.

This burger, in beef only, is delicious, as stated, but is the perfect example of being ruined by the bun. Stale, grilled and ultimately burnt and bitter is the least of it’s problems, as the excess of it all voids any other positive flavors. It was basically an onion roll sandwich with too many toppings, potentially frozen fries, and not enough beef. Too bad, any normal sized bun that was fresh and this could have been one of the great ones.

Overall Score: 75

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