March 2nd, 2011 by Richard Chudy

It’s no wonder I love the burger at Lineage so much, Jeremy Sewall is the chef behind another of my all-time favorites, the burger at Eastern Standard, and he nails it again, this time in Brookline in a much cozier and intimate setting. Once again, it’s not super complicated, and that seems to be the case with most if not all of my preferred burgers, as less is almost always more. It’s basically the anti-burger boy burger, as both blue cheese and brioche are involved, but the house burger is what I’m after, and I have no fear. The burger is all about balance; it’s rich, sweet, beefy and juicy, exactly what a burger should be.

When a burger is great, you can’t put it down, each bite is flavorful, juicy and delicious. And that’s how it is at Lineage, the beef is succulent, but it’s also sweet, again, all about the balance. Rarely is a burger seasoned to my ridiculous salty taste buds (and some say personality) and this one is good, but I could almost always use more salt. The blue cheese is smartly incorporated, just enough that I know it’s there, but tucked away ever so slightly that little nuggets of the creamy and distinctive cheese are detectable. The beef is not exactly an explosion in fat, but it doesn’t need to be, it has enough juice to sustain the sandwich the entire meal, despite one or two bites being a tad over-cooked and less successful. The fries are thick, fluffy and soft on the inside, and impeccably crunchy on the outside, but desperately need salt, even if they technically deliver.

It may not be the flashiest burger, not a lot of bells and whistles, but the flavor is there and like all great burgers, I just can’t seem to put it down. Listed as a “Prime Burger,” the beef stands out but has a nice supporting cast in the surprise of blue cheese, an uncomplicated and effective Brioche bun, and addictive homemade pickled vegetables. And for $14 it’s well worth it, if not the ideal burger spot for an ideal burger world.

Overall Score: 91

2 Responses

  1. -Mark- says:

    So glad you liked this place. I’ve been a big fan of Lineage for years (beyond burgers) and I’ve always felt they didn’t get the recognition they deserved.

  2. Marcus says:

    I walked in here Saturday and the bar was packed. I’m definitely going back and I’ll be sure to try the burger. Thanks for the review!