In the ultimate too much of a good thing can ruin a burger scenario, Ten Tables in Jamaica Plain fires on all cylinders. Unless of course you subscribe to the theory that the burger is flawed, seriously flawed regardless, it won’t make much of a difference. I secretly love places like this though, in that underground, hidden burger destination that no one is aware of, this is not the typical spot for a burger, kind of in that Craigie mold without it actually being any good. But that’s kind of a major difference. It would have been superb if it were actually superb, but don’t be fooled by the atmosphere, the intimacy, or the cheffy tricks they try to pull. This burger is done-in by a dreadful bun that is about five times the size of the patty itself, and far too many components that all get muddled together. Bacon aioli and A-10 Sauce sound great, and on their own they taste great, but when you pile them onto an already monstrous burger with caramelized onions, cheese and lettuce, it’s too much to handle. Literally.The beef tastes a little odd, not bad, just not the beef flavor I’m used to, but maybe that’s what Humanely Raised beef is supposed to taste like. To me, it tasted more porky than beefy, in that meatloaf kind of way. But it is nice and salty, formed loose, it is at least a well crafted and well cooked burger, but the flavor profiles just don’t work. A fried egg, which I can never resist, is cooked perfectly and brings the richness I need, but then again it’s one aggressive flavor after another. French Fries do not come with this burger, no sir, you get good old fashioned potato salad. It’s a perfectly acceptable potato salad, but it’s ordinary at that, and doesn’t seem to justify or match the over-the-top approach taken by the burger it accompanies.
The presentation, atmosphere and menu all sound great on paper, but when it comes time to deliver, Ten Tables falls short. The burger is just not burger-ish enough, the bun is far too big, and while the bacon aioli and A-10 sauce taste good on their own, it never comes together as a complete burger package. Chalk this up to another moderately priced restaurant trying too hard to achieve something that should be so simple.
Overall Score: 74