I’m just a burger boy living the dream, the dream being finding the best burgers in Boston. It’s a tough job but somebody’s got to do it. There are of course, the occasionally sub-par burgers, maybe it’s not even fair to hold the Coolidge Corner Clubhouse burger to similar standards of burgers past, but if there’s a burger on a menu I say it’s fair game. Which isn’t to say I don’t enjoy the atmosphere, and my favorite group of local food bloggers love it too. How could you argue with her, her, her, or her? You can’t really, if they enjoy going there to drink their gin and tonics then who am I to argue? A menu so large The Cheesecake Factory would be jealous, there are dozens of burgers to choose from. But all in that Pub-mold, nothing too creative and nothing too adventurous. But nothing is less than $10.99, and as I soon discovered, priced about $10 too high. I settle on the “Yaz” burger, which comes with cheddar, bacon and a fried egg, and comes in priced at $13.99. All of the burgers are made from ground Sirloin, aka the worst possible choice you can make when constructing a burger. Add to that some flame-broiled goodness and you have a pretty poor foundation already. The burger is a bit over-cooked, but nothing totally offensive. The offense comes in the complete lack of flavor, it’s like biting into water that’s somehow shaped into a burger. The bacon is chewy and unrecognizable, and the egg is so over-cooked it’s not even funny. Runny yolk would have been lovely, but what essentially becomes a hard boiled egg atop the burger is just plain abominable. The fries come curly, which obviously means frozen. There is actually too much salt because they did not season them immediately out of the fryer, which would have helped the salt adhere to the fries. Instead there is just salt upon salt on the surface, but not on the actual Curly Fry.
I’ve had a few beyond bad burgers before, and maybe I shouldn’t have expected much more for a Sports Bar. The real crime of course is the $14 price tag, which just makes it that much worse. Really it should be priced about half that, then I probably wouldn’t care so much. But it is what it is; a lousy tasting burger that is creeping up on that “expensive” range when it has no business being anything you can’t get at the 99 or some other crappy chain in town.
Overall Score: 58