Clink

May 1st, 2011 by Richard Chudy

I often find that burgers never match their given price. Where does the price even come from? You put lipstick on a pig it’s still a pig, right? I guess if you put wannabe fancy ingredients on a burger it’s still a burger. While I can in no way justify the $17 price tag on the Clink burger, topped with a fried egg and Cheddar, it is quite delicious, the perfect examples of balance and restraint. Nothing is over-done and everything is in tune from one ingredient to the next. It’s also a rare example of grass-fed beef that tastes pretty good. Not superb and not overly beefy or fatty (although I guess that’s the point) it does hit on a few different taste buds. The meat is cooked medium-rare as requested, is juicy but not overly-so, forgive me if I penned those words before. If you’re searching for an impeccably juicy burger that is greasy, satisfying and to the point, Clink is not that burger. But if a straight-forward, grilled and well seasoned burger is all your after, this is a place worth taking a closer look.Of course, for $17, and we have seen this all before, you better be blowing me away. The burger at Clink is very good but not very great, and this absurb “gourmet” trend with burgers is starting to get out of hand. This is a $14 burger tops, maybe squabbling over a mere $3 seems amateur, but the point is that it is not a splurge worthy meal. The bun is soft but not too soft, and crispy but not too crispy. It’s buttered and has the faint resemblance to a croissant for that reason, it actually works well. Any lighter it would be too airy and any more crispy and it would be tricky to work through. The fried egg offers a promise of runny yolk, but is just over the threshold of being over-cooked so the liquid yolk is not as predominant as it deserves to be. The fries are salty, crispy and seasoned with just a hint of spice (chili powder?) and are all one could ever need from a potato companion.

But it has to be compared with it’s costly burger colleagues: Asana, Craigie on Main, Radius, Back Bay Social Club, and The Bristol Lounge. It’s probably on the lower end of that scale, still delicious, but I’d rather have all of the aforementioned except for Asana, which is more expensive and not as satisfying. I’m sure I’m sounding like a broken record, but the point is that this is very good burger, but anything that is this expensive has to be out-of-this-world. A fried egg and cheddar cheese in no way make this a luxurious burger, you end up paying for the allure of the Liberty Hotel, which is unique in its own way, but the ambiance should not dictate the price of a hamburger.

Overall Score: 84

4 Responses

  1. hi rich, i thought you were going to 5napkins last week. did you go here instead?

  2. p.s. rich, is craigie the only burger you’ve had that has had something else going on in the patty itself other than just meat?(spices, condiments etc)? i thought miso was mentioned……
    And do you find short rib , or anything else, as a patty component- particularly flavorful? thanks much.

    • Richard says:

      I’m sure there are other places that use other ingredients, but I either haven’t noticed or it hasn’t made a difference in the overall flavor. Craigie has something special, but the opposite is true at say, The Druid, where extra seasonings make it taste like meatloaf.