Aquitaine

June 21st, 2011 by Richard Chudy

You can try to play the role of a great burger, but if you can’t even cook it right, there’s just no hope. The Aquitaine burger looks like it could be a winner; bacon, cheddar, truffle mayo and pommes frites. But oh, that dreaded Brioche. But ah, that the brioche actually works and the beef does not is the real surprise. The truffle mayo is flavorful, say what you will about the authenticity of truffle oil, I enjoy the flavor even if it’s not the real thing. The bacon ceases to be crispy, despite evoking a good smoky flavor it’s chewy and lackluster. And that beef, with a fair amount of char and modest salt, is over-cooked and relatively dry. I long for the days of juicy burgers, cooked right, and seasoned to my absurd taste. It’s a straight-forward attempt, but never carried out in the execution department.

Ringing in at $15 for dinner ($13 for lunch) the approach of minimalism and perfection seems to be the goal at Aquitaine. It’s edible for sure, and that may be a bit of an undersell on my end. There’s not a lot fundamentally wrong, (yes it’s over-cooked) it tastes pretty good, there just isn’t a whole lot to write home about either. The fries are crispy and seasoned appropriately but are lukewarm, and again pretty basic  for a sandwich that tries to be something it is not. One aspect that did not go unnoticed was the flawless and attentive service I received, snooty French atmosphere this is not, if only the food matched the hospitality. The Aquitaine burger wants to be the top dog, but until they decide on a more premium meat blend, learn to be more aggressive with their seasonings and actually cook it more evenly, they still have a little ways to go.

Overall Score:  75

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