Bistro du Midi

September 21st, 2011 by Richard Chudy

An easy burger to peg, plagued by many of the same issues of wannabe burgers from the past, the Bistro du Midi burger is merely ordinary. Too bad, this $15, “Black Angus Burger” sounds fine, available at the bar only, in what is a well respected establishment. But, as is often the case with well respected establishments and their burgers, not much thought is put into it, yet the price tag is advanced based on location and reputation of adjoining dishes on the menu. Everyone wants to serve a burger, I get it, but where’s the love? We all want to join the Boston burger party but no one wants to be prepared. Maybe I’m taking this a bit too seriously, but then again, that shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone who knows me or this blog. I’m serious about my burgers, maybe I should learn to lighten up. Then again maybe I’ll lighten up for the next one.

It’s not a bad burger by any stretch, but a cliched example of the price killing any glimmer of respectability. You’re paying for ambiance in a lovely restaurant, and location. What ever happened to paying for the product? It’s more or less a $9 burger overcharged by about $6. Tasting like a pretty standard beef blend (chuck or sirloin most likely) it has modest seasoning and minimal beef flavor. The requested medium-rare is mostly honored, over-cooked around the edges but a rosy pink on the interior, it’s neither overly juicy or completely dry. The fries, promised to be seasoned with Espelette Pepper, a common spice used by many pretentious chefs (kidding of course, it’s wonderful) does nothing to live up to its mild heat and aroma teaser. Pale and less than optimal in the crunch factor, they are bland and devoid of pairing with most burgers, let alone a $15 one.

Goat Cheese is an uncommon option to top a burger and one we couldn’t pass up. It would have worked better had the beef flavor been more predominant, but instead it’s all cheese and no beef. Ideally, the sharpness of the goat cheese would have paired beautifully with the salty and rich beef. Maybe in my perfect burger world, but this isn’t it. The bun, in the much maligned Brioche neighborhood, is too large to work with the burger, and the addition of iceberg lettuce and raw red onion give it a Pub style feel I had hoped they’d want to avoid. Again, it’s not an offensive burger, it’s simply too plain Jane for the price tag that goes with it, surely a great setting to try something else on their extensive menu, but it’s hard to recommend this burger.

Overall Score: 74

One Response

  1. Wow- I gotta say- reading the review I figured your overall score would be lower than 74. I think you’re spot on though-every restaurant “has” to have a burger so they are throwing one on in the same price point as the rest of their fare…Its like when wine bars throw those 3 beers into the selection “just because”-a check box checked.