Unless you ditch the notion that a burger has to taste, look or feel a certain way, you’re missing the point. It doesn’t make a difference if it’s big, small, grilled or griddled, the only thing that’s important is that it tastes good. After all, isn’t that really what we’re judging? A heftier price tag may make you think twice, but if it’s $20 and it’s incredible, who really cares? Lucky for you, the burger at Abigail’s costs a mere $9, ($13 if you want to “double down” with an extra patty) and is a satisfying, unpretentious offering. Clearly a lot of thought went into this burger, but they weren’t foolish into trying to gussy up a classic burger. No, it’s not Shake Shack or In-N-Out, but it is a successful, thin burger that is more akin to a Big Mac than anything else. But that’s not its downfall, it’s more a testament to its attributes.
I suppose if Big Mac’s or fast-food burgers aren’t your thing, this may not be the burger for you. Topped with a special sauce, iceberg lettuce and American Cheese, it’s eerily similar to the Golden Arches classic, but in the best way possible. While everyone else in Boston is trying to put their stamp on the gourmet burger, it’s refreshing to see a place like Abigail’s take a chance with an underdog. It’s not without flaws, however, and although it is comforting, it’s hardly slapping you in the face with beef. The slim burger has flecks of pink throughout, and has a good attack of juices, and is a far cry from the greasiness that is the downfall of other burgers of its kind. The melted American cheese brings adequate creaminess to the sandwich, and the cooling special sauce (basically a Thousand Island type spread) balances it all out. The choice of a Martin’s Potato Roll is no accident, it works perfectly for a burger of this size for obvious reasons; it’s soft, not too squishy and has enough structure to fit the patty and not fall apart. But the burger is mostly understated; it’s delicious in its own way, but nothing is over-the-top and it almost leaves you wanting more. Doubling down with an extra patty seems to do the trick, as is the case with any burger, more beef makes everything better. It’s a neat little package, contained and flavorful, it’s hardly messy but it hardly matters. The lack of a good crust on the surface of the burger was a minor letdown, as any caramelization could have gone a long way. The hand-cut fries are good and crispy with a soft and fluffy inside, although the crispiness is fleeting, eat ‘em quickly or you run the risk of a less than perfect fry, but eating them fast shouldn’t be an issue.
Overall the burger is solid, it won’t blow you away but it certainly does’t make you wish you had some massive pile of over-cooked beef on a stale Brioche bun either. It’s a great version of what it is, nothing new or ground-breaking, just good, and that’s all that matters to me.
Overall Score: 83