Vito’s Tavern

February 29th, 2012 by Richard Chudy

At least the wings were good. The burger…not so much, a classic case of looking really friggin’ good on paper, the burger at Vito’s Tavern misses the mark again and again while trying to sound more special than it actually is. I ordered the “Fifth Flavor” Burger, a promise of Umami-rich ingredients (Roasted Tomato, Parmigiano Frico, Homemade Ketchup, Shiitake Mushrooms, Brioche) all for the seemingly great price of $12.99. The beef is advertised as a special blend but it tastes rather ordinary. It’s kind of an odd one; all the ingredients are there, more or less, they just don’t pack a punch the way they’re supposed to. The mushrooms are few and far between, and the homemade ketchup appears to be completely lacking, but the tomato runs rampant. The Frico, which ideally provides a wonderful crunch, is soggy and all it can do is cling to the tomatoes that may or may not even be roasted. A lot of talk but a big letdown in execution, something we’ve sadly seen far too often.¬†

The beef inside the mammoth burger is over-cooked by a long-shot. It’s very light with the seasoning and without a lot of juiciness to speak of. For all the promise, there’s simply no character here, it’s as ordinary as the next burger and calling it humble is an understatement. Fair or unfair, the burger that over-promises is opening itself up to more criticism, that’s just how it is. The more elements you have on a dish the easier it is to find faults. But it goes the other way too, as I have no problem dishing out complements to the burger that at least tries to be different, something I’m always preaching to the Burger Gods. The fries are acceptable, nothing noteworthy but seasoned appropriately and satisfying enough that I easily polish them off.

Chalk the burger up to a great design with a poor execution and leave it at that. A more generous helping of supporting ingredients and a better seasoned and more interesting burger and you’d be talking about something terrific. Sadly, that’s just not in the cards, and it leaves me desiring a burger that may not exist.

Overall Score: 70

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