Ho hum. I’ve had this burger before and you’ve read this review before. Not literally of course, but the burger at Savin Bar and Kitchen in Dorchester is not unlike many renditions I’ve had thus far. Not surprisingly, after hundreds and hundreds of burger eating experiences, it’s inevitable that there similarities among them. Hanging out with the man himself, my friend Adam Xii of Radio BDC fame, our focus ended up shifting towards music, as it often does, instead of the sandwich before us. And that’s mostly a good summary of the lunch; the burger is and was totally fine, but attention worthy or even debatable on its success was sort of an afterthought. Completely adequate and satisfying in a way that most burgers are as a whole, we could just as easily leave it at that.
The tightly packed and thick patty is typical in a pub burger setting, although I wouldn’t categorize Savin Bar and Kitchen as a pub. It’s more of a neighborhood joint with slightly more elevated (and higher priced) offerings in a clean and comfortable setting. Seasoning on the meat is well rounded and adequate, with above average beefiness in a ground chuck sort of way. It reads burger on the palate through and through, but for $12 lacks the excitement of a top tier burger and is probably fairly priced. Cheese is fully melted but unpronounced, and a pickle spear on the side is bright, crunchy and tangy. The bun is a chewy and crackly version that I’m sure I’ve had elsewhere too. Fluffy on the underside but rugged and sturdy on top, covers the patty nicely and has the proper thickness level to neither distract nor deter. The patty is juicy, with not much caramelization, but still pretty good we determine, if again, not over the top eventful. Fries are well seasoned with no twists or turns but are properly executed.
It’s not original in any way but that doesn’t make it less enjoyable. Everything is cooked according to plan (including the medium-rare patty) but no element screams excitement. Sometimes that’s fine, because often all you want and need is a simple burger. Savin Bar and Kitchen is certainly the place for that, probably not something I’d need to return to, but not a bad option if it’s in your ‘hood.
Overall Score: 80