Oh, Griddlers, you give my dearly beloved Griddled Burger style a bad name. Even though I’m fully aware that sometimes not all burgers have to be gourmet to be good, a place like Griddlers comes along and sort of makes my point about the “expensive” burgers. Often, the cheap burgers are just that; cheap, all grease and no substance, but maybe that’s all that we crave for our burgers. Me, I want a little more, even if that means breaking down something that’s a little less flattering and showing a hell of a lot less finesse in a food category that should be lowbrow all the way. There are numerous examples of quality burgers for an affordable price, but this is not one of them. Better suited to the confines of a drive-through than the upscale surroundings of Beacon Hill, this was a miss, and the very infrequent occasion where we didn’t even finish the burger. continue reading »
JM Curley
What makes a great burger? It’s not a big secret, most restaurant dishes, especially of the comfort food variety, succeed because they are not shy with salt or fat. Burgers are no exception; season aggressively and don’t skimp on the fat and you’re off to a delicious start. Burgers aren’t a diet food, better stick with the salad if you want something healthier, the ideal burger shouldn’t be good for you. Which isn’t to say the burgers at JM Curley are overly greasy or salty, it isn’t, although it is in fact, a strong contender for one of my new favorites in Boston. continue reading »
Vito’s Tavern
At least the wings were good. The burger…not so much, a classic case of looking really friggin’ good on paper, the burger at Vito’s Tavern misses the mark again and again while trying to sound more special than it actually is. I ordered the “Fifth Flavor” Burger, a promise of Umami-rich ingredients (Roasted Tomato, Parmigiano Frico, Homemade Ketchup, Shiitake Mushrooms, Brioche) all for the seemingly great price of $12.99. The beef is advertised as a special blend but it tastes rather ordinary. It’s kind of an odd one; all the ingredients are there, more or less, they just don’t pack a punch the way they’re supposed to. The mushrooms are few and far between, and the homemade ketchup appears to be completely lacking, but the tomato runs rampant. The Frico, which ideally provides a wonderful crunch, is soggy and all it can do is cling to the tomatoes that may or may not even be roasted. A lot of talk but a big letdown in execution, something we’ve sadly seen far too often. continue reading »
Met Back Bay
If you’re going to talk the talk you’d better be able to walk the walk, and the Dry-Aged burger at Met Back Bay clearly has issues walking and talking at the same time. The epitome of a burger that sounds really friggin’ good on paper (Dry-Aged beef, sharp cheddar, double smoked bacon, port wine onions, organic sesame seed bun) but is a colossal disappointment. There’s no debate that a higher price tag has to yield higher expectations and the opportunity for more critiques. It’s not nitpicking, that’s just the way it is, and this burger, priced at $18, fails in just about every aspect. continue reading »
Towne
Beware the gourmet burger they say, expensive burgers can’t be trusted. If people start talking about a burger, there’s probably a reason for it, although in the case of Towne, most of the chatter seems to have vanished after a hot start. Priced at $16, I’ve somehow avoided this burger for months, but like most things, this was worth the wait. To make the upper tier, you must nail execution, flavor, and offer something that other burgers can’t. Ironically labeled the “Deluxe All-American Bacon Burger,” it’s all about the meat, but for the gourmet crowd it should go without saying. How premium the entire package is and how much value is attributed to a hefty price tag is the question. continue reading »










