Scarlet Oak Tavern

July 19th, 2011 by Richard Chudy

I’ve explored the depths of non-city burgers once or twice, most recently here. I’m a city boy, more or less, but I have no qualms about traveling all over this state, region, or country for great eats, never mind a great burger. Hingham isn’t exactly the farthest destination, but far enough for the SBK and I to enjoy a little car ride while I swear at traffic all the while. Scarlet Oak Tavern was the destination, and I’m happy to report it was worth the trip. I opted for the Gus Burger (cheddar cheese, smoked bacon and a fried egg) for a mere $12. Arriving hot, juicy, and with a dominating char aroma, it was satisfying and worthy of the price tag. Not without flaws, but if you’ve read anything on this website before, that shouldn’t surprise you. continue reading »

Local 149

July 1st, 2011 by Richard Chudy

The food at Local 149 can described as uneven; this after multiple attempts, a couple of very good burgers, and a couple less than stellar. The people behind The Biltmore in Newton take on a similar vibe in the new Southie spot, a very ambitious gastro-pub of a menu, that isn’t always triumphant. At it’s best, the Local Cheese Burger is a delight; with grass-fed sirloin, cheddar, pickled green tomato and seaweed salt fries. Trust me, this is as normal as the menu gets, which isn’t to say I don’t appreciate at least reading the menu, the flavors are often presented as bold and unique, but my taste buds don’t always agree. The Patty Melt is less successful; two all-beef patties, sauerkraut, Muenster and 24 hour ketchup. Yeah, there’s a lot going on, individually the components work, but never fully unify to become the great burger they could be. continue reading »

The Brickyard

June 28th, 2011 by Richard Chudy

Anything not in or around Boston usually has a tough time gaining recognition. Those poor suburbs never stand a chance in the food world, what’s great for us city dwellers may not be so great on the “other side.” But good food shouldn’t know any boundaries, I was hopeful Woburn could end up being a great burger destination, but in the end, The Brickyard comes up short. The menu is built around pizzas and burgers, what’s not to like? But the burgers have that chain restaurant-vibe. Redundant flavor combinations and the usual tricks, but not much flavor. The Brickyard Stuffed burger comes with bacon and cheese in the middle of the patty, or so they say. Most of the “stuffing” sits atop the burger, with nary a bit or two of bacon and just a touch of American cheese gushing out of the over-cooked burger. Theoretically stuffing a burger is a nice idea, but it just doesn’t work here.

Again, it’s about cooking things properly, I’m looking for seasoning and technique, always. If there had been enough flavor on these ground chuck burgers to compensate for a few technical errors all would be forgiven. But the burger has no crust, with minimal seasoning and certainly not a lot of personality. The burger is smushed between my old nemesis, brioche. Don’t let the buttery and shiny bun fool you, it really only makes sense in one out of every ten burgers, and this is not one of them. The fries are amazingly forgettable, I can almost guarantee deriving from the freezer, and lacking any seasoning whatsoever. The Brickyard tries to promise a unique and special burger experience, but with a good portion of the bacon raw and the burger way over-cooked, it makes a special trip outside of the city a big disappointment, especially when the next great burger is at steak.

Overall Score: 62

Aquitaine

June 21st, 2011 by Richard Chudy

You can try to play the role of a great burger, but if you can’t even cook it right, there’s just no hope. The Aquitaine burger looks like it could be a winner; bacon, cheddar, truffle mayo and pommes frites. But oh, that dreaded Brioche. But ah, that the brioche actually works and the beef does not is the real surprise. The truffle mayo is flavorful, say what you will about the authenticity of truffle oil, I enjoy the flavor even if it’s not the real thing. The bacon ceases to be crispy, despite evoking a good smoky flavor it’s chewy and lackluster. And that beef, with a fair amount of char and modest salt, is over-cooked and relatively dry. I long for the days of juicy burgers, cooked right, and seasoned to my absurd taste. It’s a straight-forward attempt, but never carried out in the execution department. continue reading »

51 Lincoln

February 26th, 2011 by Richard Chudy

Photo courtesy of Christine Liu

Great burgers are hard to come by in Boston. Sure, you can have a pretty good burger, over-sized, a spear of a dill pickle, cold beer and get in for under $10. Problem solved, right? Well, not so fast, if the goal is to be full and to not really think about how/why/what the meal is all about, then maybe this isn’t the place for you. It’s often pointed out that even when I like a place, I never really like a place. And I get it, the tagline here does reference “the perfect burger” but it’s so tongue and cheek, food is subjective, how could one meal, especially a dumb burger, ever be perfect? The burger at 51 Lincoln in Newton is not perfect, but it is damn good, I promise my complaints will be few and far between. continue reading »